Day 24: Mahabalipuram Morning and Arrival in Pondicherry

Morning at the Shore Temple

Sleep did not come easily. The guide's words from the evening before had stayed: the morning light falls on the eastern entrance, lighting the idols from inside. Come at dawn, he had said.

Up before five. Reached the Shore Temple at 5:15 AM, bought the e-ticket, and waited for the gates to open.

The sea breeze at the hour was calm and gentle and the surroundings were almost silent, occasionally broken by the sound of waves, a bird settling on the temple walls, and the distant motor of a fishing boat heading out from the colony nearby.

It felt almost cinematic being there before the crowd trickles in and enjoying the sprawling temple compound almost fully to my self. Lack of night's sleep swiftly forgotten in the calmness of this southern spring morning.  

The morning light came through the eastern side and the temple complex slowly came alive with the soft light. The light's angle was not exactly penetrating the temple's east side as sun had moved direction owing to winter solstice.

Spent time walking the complex, photographing, watching the light shift slowly. Decided against trying to photograph the sunrise itself as it would have taken a longer route to get to the shore.

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The road was heading south and the sun would rise over the sea again many times before the journey ended.

Back at the homestay for breakfast and a short rest. Then packed up and headed out, with one stop planned before leaving Mahabalipuram.

A Small Stop: The Shell Museum

One kilometre from the homestay, on the road out toward Pondicherry, stood the Shell Museum.

Inside was an impressive collection of shells of different shapes, sizes and marine organisms gathered from across the world. The museum is the result of years of work by one man — Mr. Raja Mohammad — whose dedication has turned a personal passion into an emphatic, accessible display for public. Thousands of specimens of every shape and size, from oceans the collector has clearly spent years reaching. Displayed with the particular care of someone who built it piece by piece over decades.

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Spent approx. 45 minutes inside. It is the kind of place that does not announce itself and does not need to. One person's sustained attention to a single thing, over a lifetime, visible in a room off a coastal road. Worth every minute of the stop.

On the Road to Pondicherry

Left Mahabalipuram late morning. Now that the southern India has finally been hit, the drive became smoother with less traffic and better driving etiquettes.  With just over two hours of drive, the drive passed near to Kalpakkam and various local water bodies making the drive enjoyable and worth every turn of the wheel.

Passing through various states and UT's, whenever a new one came the number plates would easily distinguish the border area versus when you are deep in the state. Here too, from TN (Tamil Nadu) it became majorly PY (Puducherry) as I apprached the state and the UT border.

A few kilometres before the destination, repair work on the arterial roads required diversions. Reached hotel around 3:30 PM.

Into the French Quarter

The hotel was located in what is locally known as the French Quarter.

The difference is immediately visible. The streets here carry a distinct architectural style: colonial-era buildings, pastel-coloured facades, arched doors, bougainvillea over compound walls, and quiet tree-lined lanes. Walking through this part of town feels like stepping into a different chapter of history. The grid of the town deliberate and unhurried.

After a short rest, I checked with the front desk about nearby places to explore.

Camera in hand, the Ricoh street camera this time, I stepped out toward the Promenade.

Evening on the Promenade

The Promenade runs along the seafront and is closed to vehicles. No traffic, no noise from behind, just walkers, photographers, couples, and the sea. A few pre-wedding shoots were underway in the evening light. Stopped at the tourist information booth, spoke to the person there for what all is there to see in the area, and walked the full length.

Historic buildings and monuments stand along the road, and the open space allows the sea breeze to move freely across the walkway. It is the kind of place people come to simply sit, walk, talk, or watch the evening pass.

Walked silently, soaking in the openness of the place. Its a kind of an open amphiteatre where locals and tourists come every morning and evening, playing their part in the drama of life - one day at a time. And I too became the part of this ensemble.

Though the Promonade has some famous bakeries and restaurants with great sea-view, chose the restaurant run by the Tourism office, right in the centre of the Promenade to have a quick snack.

Shot photographs along the way, the kind of street photography that a pedestrian-only seafront road invites without effort.

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A Slow End to the Day

The walk back to the hotel felt slower.

On the way, I stopped at a small ice-cream cart run by a local vendor. Everything he served was made from natural ingredients. I tried one unusual flavour, a slightly spicy mix with watermelon. Unexpected, but surprisingly good.

Back at the hotel, was still a little hungry. The walk and the breeze seems to have consume the calories from that restaurant.

Headed up to the rooftop bar for a beer and a light meal.

With that, finally called it a night. With next morning awaits a new adventure!