Day 1: Bharatpur — Birds, a Farm & Bholu

A lazy morning rise with lack of sleep very evident, it was time to load everything systematically, important things kept accessible. The boot of the Duster, always spacious and dependable, took in bags and gear like it had done this before. By 12:30 PM, the wheels were finally turning.

A short break at Starbucks near the Jewar toll plaza offered the first pause — a moment to settle into the idea of being on the move. A little while afterwards, the highway opened up towards Rajasthan. Four hours and a steady drive later, Bharatpur came into view by 4:30 PM.

The stay was at Royal Farm, an Airbnb tucked quietly away from the main road. Rinkesh Singh, the host, doubled as a guide at the sanctuary — trained, knowledgeable, and an exponent of not just Indian but European languages too, specialising in German. He welcomed guests with an ease and familiarity that comes from knowing every corner of his land. The place — all seven well-appointed rooms — was built around simple, functional values. Organic vegetables grow in the front garden. Wheat and mustard crops, grown in alternate years, fill the two bigha farm right beside the homestay. Guests are served meals from what the land produces. There was a rhythm to the place: clean air, the earthy smell of fresh produce, and a slow rural hush that the city doesn't do.

Evening tea arrived with mixed pakoras — hot and crisp, enough to take the edge off whatever was left of the February chill. A short wander around, cameras checked, and soon it was time for dinner, served until 9 PM: chapati, dal, rice, green salad, and a mix of vegetables picked straight from the farm.

Helping in the kitchen was Bholu — a quiet, smiling presence who seemed to be everywhere at once. Refilling cups, clearing plates, keeping things in motion without drawing attention to any of it. No frills. Just honest, warm food and a place that eased you into travel mode without fanfare. The food was delicious.

"The day will start sharp at 6:15 AM," were Rinkesh's words before the night ended. A gentle hint that it was time to sleep — and to be on time in the morning.

Getting There

Route from Delhi: Delhi–Greater Noida Expressway → Yamuna Expressway → exit at Mathura → old highway to Bharatpur via Mathura.

Alternatively, the Delhi–Mumbai Expressway can also be taken, though it adds some distance.