Day 1: Delhi to Bharatpur

The two days before departure passed in a blur - last-minute packing, checklist rechecking, and trying to prepare for everything that might go wrong.Medicines were packed in duplicate. Camera gear and lenses double-checked. The Duster had been serviced. The documents: insurance, pollution, driving licence etc. were all in place. With each box ticked, the trip felt a little more real. And yet, the final choice of where to begin came late.

Bharatpur had been on the list for a while. Close enough to ease into the drive, four to five hours from Delhi and quiet enough to allow the body and mind to catch up with the idea of being on the road. The booking made viaAirbnb was my first on the platform. A small farm stay, rated best by many, was run by Rinkesh Singh. As it turned out, this was also the last Airbnb I would book during the trip and beyond.

A lazy morning rise with lack of sleep very evident, it was time to put all the stuff systematically and important things being easily accessible. The boot of the Duster, always spacious and dependable, took in bags and gear like it had done this before. By 12:30 PM, the wheels were finally turning.

A short break at Starbucks near the Jewar toll plaza offered the first pause and a moment to settle into the idea of being on the move again. A little while afterwards, the highway opened up towards Rajasthan. Four hours and a steady drive later, Bharatpur came into view by 4:30 PM.

The stay for the night was at Royal Farm, an Airbnb tucked quietly away from the main road. Rinkesh Singh, the host, also doubled up as a guide at the sanctuary owing to his training and also, he is an exponent of not just Indian however, European languages too specializing in German. He welcomes guests with ease and familiarity, the kind that comes from knowing every corner of his land. The place, all of 7 well-appointed rooms, itself was built around simple, functional values with organic vegetables grown in front garden and wheat and mustard crops grown in alternate years in the 2 bigha farm just besides the homestay. The guests are served the organic meals from these farms. There was a rhythm to the place: clean air, the earthy smell of fresh produce, and a slow rural hush in the background.

Had my evening tea, served with mixed pakoras —hot and crisp, enough to take the edge off the February chill, whatever little of it was left. Wandered around a little, checked the camera etc. and soon it was time for the dinner, which is served till 9 PM: chapati, dal, rice, green salad, and a mix of vegetables picked from the farm was there for me. Helping in the kitchen was Bholu, a quiet, smiling presence who seemed to be everywhere at once — refilling cups, clearing plates, keeping things in motion. No frills. Just honest, warm food and a place that eased you into travel mode without fanfare. And yes, the food was delicious.

The day will start sharp at 6:15 am – were the words of Rinkesh. A subtle hint that it was time to go to bed and be there on time in the morning.

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Route: Delhi-Gr. Noida Expressway to Yamuna Expressway. Exit at Mathura exit on Yamuna expressway and then take old highway to Bharatpur via Mathura.

Now one can also also take Delhi-Mumbai Expressway however, it may be a bit longer.