Day 2: 12 hours, 28000 footsteps and a mesmerising world of birds

The sleep was hard to come by as the thought of next day early rise kept me awake for some time. Got up  yet again with a lack of sleep however, with the excitement of seeing something not ordinarily seen in cities.

As instructed, was at the gates at 6:15 AM and so was Rinkesh. A host and guide keeping his words was a welcome sign that you are in good hands.

Drove to Bharatpur, also known as Keoladeo (Kevladev in Hindi pronunciation) bird sanctuary, about a km away from the place. Kevladev name is taken from a Shiva temple inside the sanctuary – the name translating to "Keval ek hi Mahadev" (there’s only one Shiva).

The gates had not opened. As I sorted my camera gear while waiting Rinkesh had procured and was ready with entry pass for the day. There were three ways to explore the park—by cycle, electric rickshaw, or walking. I picked walking. It seemed like the best way to soak in everything around. What I didn’t realise then was just how long the day would be.

The gates opened at 7:00 am and the day began with a camera slung over one shoulder and the weight of a water bottle and an additional lens balanced on the back.

Keoladeo felt hushed in the morning light. The first bird calls filtered through the trees, echoing softly across the wetlands. Over the next twelve hours, the sanctuary unfolded at walking pace. A full loop through the forested trails, marshes, and open stretches revealed more than just birds; this was a place where time stepped back.

Somewhere nearby, a jackal slips through the reeds, unseen but felt. At the water’s edge, sambhar deer graze quietly, watched by monkeys; they share space, food, and stories in a silence. The day belonged to the sanctuary.

Met two birders from Agra who joined in briefly along the trail. Their massive zoom lenses made quiet conversations about sightings easy and natural. Between stretches of silent walking, a few short exchanges about birds, routes, and travel made the day feel shared, not solitary.

By the time I left the park, it was 6:15 PM.The step counter read 28,157. That meant over 3,200 calories burned, though it felt like more. Back at the farm, tea was waiting. It tasted even better after a day like that. Dinner followed—bajra chapati, jeera rice, palak paneer, curd and fresh salad. Simple food, cooked fresh by Rinkesh's mother, just what the body needed.

As I lay in bed looking for the next destination, another short journey was what I planned post the tiring day. More on it in the next piece as I crashed thinking about it.